Returning to the story, the present moment where women comfortably wear blazers and trousers, which are traditionally associated with men's clothing (what we'll refer to as menswear), didn't come easy. Just about two centuries ago (approximately 200 years ago, which might sound long but spans only about three generations from grandparents to parents to children), women's dress codes were tightly linked to dresses, undergarments, and tightly laced corsets. There was a strict adherence to these norms, and women wearing men's clothing was considered contrary to their long-established image in society.
Everything has a process, and struggles spanned a long period of time. Even in Europe and the United States, where cultural revolutions were taking place, it wasn't until around 1850 that social activist Amelia Bloomer began a wave of "Women's Rights" by advocating for abandoning tight corsets and uncomfortable, voluminous dresses. She argued that women deserved comfortable clothing, including loose-fitting pants inspired by Turkish attire, such as the historical harem pants. These pants became famous and were named after the woman who sparked this movement – the "Bloomer." This was the first spark in a long struggle to come.
In 1920, Vietnamese ancestors had a saying, "When the enemy comes to your home, even women fight." This rang true during World War I, a global conflict that led to mourning and loss around the world. Women were also called upon to join the military during this time, primarily in support roles (the homefront). In war, corsets and dresses were impractical attire, so military jackets and trousers tailored for women were created. Women's significant contributions during World War I led to their right to vote and a growing assertion of their power in society. Those elected to office carried progressive views on women's rights and images of women. They demanded practicality in clothing—less restrictive, simpler, and highly functional. While dresses and gowns were still beloved by women, they were "modernized" to appear more masculine, sporty, and utilitarian.
Here is the period when a legend emerged and continued to influence the present day. Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel, a French woman, changed women's clothing entirely – from the upper class and the middle class to the masses in the 20th century. She discarded the notion of "Traditional Femininity" to create an "Androgynous Style" (or, in simpler terms, a De-gendered style, devoid of gender distinctions). Coco Chanel pushed forward a movement that sought to provide women with a louder voice and a more prominent role in society. She designed women's clothing inspired directly by men's attire. Her creations included vests, tweed blazers, and everyday wear for women – styles that still have a strong appeal to modern women. Coco Chanel's influence persists, representing a timeless transformation in women's fashion. She was a testament to the power of a single individual to effect change. Of course, alongside Coco Chanel, we need the presence of those who bring these ideas to the public. That's why we have "Century's Muse" figures like Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, and Katharine Hepburn, who wore more robust, message-conveying women's clothing.
Women have their own sense of style. Of course, mothers or aunts couldn't just wear their husband's or son's clothing as is; they transformed them into something unique. They had sewing and embroidery skills that allowed them to tailor these clothes to fit perfectly. These clothes were meticulously altered, especially around the waist and hips, to retain a "masculine" appearance and remove overly masculine details like oversized pockets, wide trouser legs, or prominent seams. Fashion experts of that time celebrated women and described them as, "Women can wear anything they want as long as they remain feminine, beautiful, and capable at home and look lovely to their husbands." After the war ended, women returned to their traditional roles, wearing everyday attire. However, elements of men's clothing had already made their way into women's daily fashion. Still, it wasn't until the 1960s and 70s that this became normal rather than a rebellious statement.
Yves Saint Laurent once said something, which might serve as an inspiration for many today: "For women, the tuxedo is an indispensable outfit, which they feel comfortable with, so they can be who they are. This is style, not fashion. Fads come and go, style is forever."
Contact us for more experience
Phone: (+84) 969 905 904
Website: hywovn.com
Instagram: @hy.workshop
Address: 427 Bạch Đằng street, Ward 15, Bình Thạnh District, HCM city, Vietnam
Comments